With a reserved seat on the subway
In China, planned tourists in long-distance trails are usually aircraft. And if you are unscheduled and save every yuan? Your chance – train. In multimillion Beijing to navigate without language and a hard guide, but here are the advice "Being". First: Choose aircraft landing in the morning. Go overnight looking from the airport to an unfamiliar city.
Buses-shuttle after seven in the evening do not go, and a taxi driver will certainly bring some five star "Hilton". It is better to pass the night at the airport.
So, morning. Passport control, we fall into the luggage gym. If the passenger is dressed not for the season – it does not matter. Waiting for a fucking, you can go to one of the specially arranged cabins near the conveyor and change clothes.
Things – on the trolley (free of charge), and now with an independent view, follow the green customs corridor in the arrival hall – to the exchange rates of currency. The course is the same that at the airport is that in the city, so you can change the hundredths with a portrait of the President of Franklin for hundreds with a portrait of the President of Mao. For one green give 8 red. The course is rather stable, "shrinkage" Dollar small. Exchange receipt must be kept before departure to the Motherland. If unspent yuan remains, then you can turn them again into dollars only at the presentation of the Kvitka.
When leaving the building, you will have to withstand the siege of intermediaries offering a taxi. But why overpay, if passenger buses go from the terminal to the city? "Question price" – 2 dollars (in terms of). The main thing is to find the platform, where the bus goes straight to the train station. On risers – inscriptions: hieroglyphs and in English. Missed hard.
30-40 minutes of the path (depending on traffic jams at the congress from the high-speed autobahn), and our "shuttle" arrives at the end item. "And where is the station?" – confused on the novice. Do not fuss. We arrived at the backyard – the front entrance of the bus can not be parked. The most reliable is to go after passengers pulling big suitcases on wheels. They are exactly rushing to the train.
Such a crowded, as at the station area in Beijing, you will not see, perhaps, nowhere. The impression is as if all 1.3 billion Chinese gathered here! Dealers: Hotel, Taxi, Luggage Storage? Camera.
First, pass the severity, and then – at the ticket office. At long distances, trains usually leave in the evening, and you can go to Beijing. It is thorough to get acquainted with him better after returning from the country’s trip. In the meantime, you just need to look.
Hermiter grabs your heavy backpack (suitcase, bar) and drags to the storage chamber. You will die: it is necessary, what service! But this is not a service, and sterry because you were accepted for Loha. Receiver with a porter in collusion: gestures are shown – 20 yuan in one place. And no receipt. But nearby, in two steps, the rack is more comprehensive, and here without Chinese ceremonies take luggage for 5 yuan. Supreme pilot machine: let "volunteer" convey the luggage to the window chosen by him, and then, having wandering the price, pass it next door.
In a huge service hall of tickets – up to 20 windows. And as many queues. We are looking for the shortest – in "Reference window". If the cashier speaks a little English, it’s good luck. It happens, even an inscription above the window is notified: "English-speaking cashier".
The Indian Wanderer must have a map with hieroglyphic designations of cities. Oral speech unreliable. There is, for example, Jiangsu and Jiangxi Province. And try to explain what you want to go to Chende, and not in Chend. God forbid God to be mistaken: between these cities – two thousand kilometers. So do not do without hieroglyphs: poke into the right place on the map, and the cashier will understand. Yes, it will also kindly write on the paper shred number the window, where you need to take. And lucky, then I myself will issue a ticket through a computer network.
If you need a ticket for the nearest train, quite the simplest gesture, and if tomorrow – write on a piece of paper, month and number. The price of the ticket will pop up on the computer screen, and it is important to have a necessary amount at hand. For reference: a ticket from Beijing to Cunming (2 days of the road to the southwest through the whole country) will cost about $ 70. Shanghai – about 40. Store fixed capital in a deep snack so that the pockets do not get.
Somehow I watched such a scene. Vorishka won the wallet at the rip. The policeman noticed it, but he did not rush. The thief jurklunked into the underground transition, but the guard of the order, the ones on the bottom, was already warned by the radio. With a clear educational reception he neutralized "Sprinter" And, sitting on it riding, snapped "Bangles" On wrists.
What to take on the road? In addition to products, it is important to have a mug and welding. Thermos conductors are spread. In addition, there is Titan with steep boiling water – next to the service compartment.
In China has its own "Chechnya" – This is a Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Area, where Muslim-separatists are stolen. They can arrange a terrorist attack in Central China. Therefore, when entering the station, the entire luggage is put on the conveyor, and it moves through the X-ray unit. The main thing is to intercept the hexogen, and the documents do not interest anyone. We have on the contrary: when landing into the car it is enough to present a passport, and no one will ask: "What do you guys in backpacks?"
In major cities, the stations of the same type. Several escalators raise the passenger "biomass" On the second floor. Long wide corridor; On the right and left – doors in the halls of waiting for several hundred people each. At the top on the shields are displayed numbers of the nearest trains and the corresponding rooms of waiting rooms. Everything works so easy that even academician. In each hall a few exits perron. Half an hour before the departure of the train opens the right. 2-3 controllers, policeman. The queue moves chinno, without noise and crush. Again the corridor and stairs leading down on the platform. Where to go – tell me pointers.
Each wagon is on duty conductor in shape. Find your wagon on the plate is easy, place too. But what of the three sleeping shelves take? All one has one, the truth is still a hieroglyph. Here the passengers will tell Lovyasya (a foreigner) – what he has "level". Ahead of the night, and shelves are covered with clean linen (included in the ticket price; your towel is yours). If you put on top of the top, then like a panda – on the side ladder. "Sleepy fall" Do not fear: Upper shelves – insisting barriers.
The train begins exactly the schedule, the conductor collects tickets, and instead there is a plastic flag. It needs to be kept until the end of the trip. Railways – high-speed, rails – "velvet". The first half an hour toilet is closed – sanitary zone. And if someone needs to just rinse your hands – washbasin compartment separately. If it is impatient, you do not need to beat a chchelet in front of a closed door "WC". It is enough to look at the end of the corridor and see what the inscription lit up the inscription: red or green.
Once the Chinese began to make wagons on the Soviet model, but the interior was redesigned to their own way, and became more comfortable. Music in the afternoon pouring from reproductors unobtrusively. True, then the business is some passenger something yelling in a mobile phone. And the rice fields, plantations, factory pipes swim outside the window. China which is he.
Half an hour before arrival the conduit collects tokens and returns travel tickets. But do not think to throw out the convict! It will be required when leaving the station building. Exit to the city – through the tunnel. And S "Citizens who seek" We do not intersect. So the local chashid to the train leaving not easy.
Every year in the holiday of Spring (New Year in the Lunar Calendar), China’s Railways are experiencing overload. By tradition these days, all relatives must be assembled. Several generations of one family scattered throughout the country, for the holiday of Spring comes. According to Statistical data of the Mintland, in 40 days – from January 20 to March 2 – 140 million passengers are transported annually throughout the country. These days, the compositions are overflowing, and about 800 thousand passengers ride every year in the wagons without places.
Here is a typical picture on days "High season". Under the road bridge opposite the Guangzhowa railway station or on the station Square, people sleep, wrapped in cotton blankets. Most of them came to the station with the whole family and in turn stood at tickets. Live in a hotel not everyone by pocket, because they prefer the open-air overnight night. Some waiting for tickets for five days.
On the square in front of the Beijing railway station you can see people holding a leaflet in the hands of which is written: "I buy a train ticket. " They are waiting for urgent cases, and you failed to purchase a ticket in advance. So invented this system. So divorced speculators selling tickets to "deficit" Trains. In the black market, the price of a second-class ticket for the Beijing-Guangzhou train is five times higher than the state. And yet daily 15 thousand people can not leave Beijing. Without raising tickets, passengers violate the normal order – all the stations are packed under the urban. Even the most quiet and polite people in the attachment can not avoid skirm.
In Guangzhou at the station Square, the sea of people, but "nautical" No elements – the situation under control. Every 15-20 meters – Sherngi soldiers, whose presence disciplines the crowd.
Problems with "Place under the sun" arise not only in the holiday of spring, but also in the summer. City of Tian Slavlin Mount Taishan, the place of pilgrimage of Buddhists, adherents of Taoism, followers of Confucius and just inquisitive tourists. The trouble is that in provincial tian there are only passing trains.
. Ticket to Nanjing I, of course, sold, but without a place. It means to have a battle on the way. Ten minutes before the arrival of the train passengers produces to the platform for the supervision of police officers and rail officers. Where there will be free cars, queues are formed. 10-15 people become in the back of each other, the rest go on – to the next "Virtual" while the car. Another turn, and so – one after another, according to the good half of the perrone. Each "tail" oversees a policeman. Some passengers in hands are small plastic benches: not to push in a crowded car, but to sit down in the tambour. I enter into the car – everything is clogged. Four hours stood in the door, unable to peel in.
And now let’s see, in what conditions over three million Chinese railway workers are working. They also have to be not easy. At seven in the morning to work, at eight in the evening – from work, no weekend. In the express of Beijing-Guangzhou talked with the conductor.
– During the day sweeping the car every half hour. Some passengers willingly go to meet, and some will not even go dry, and besides, they will say something sharp. Summer the temperature in the car is at least 40 degrees, passengers are poured later. In the period of spring transportation, we generally work without a breather. We say so: "Time spent with his wife is much smaller than with passengers". From each flight we return hoarse, do not pull at home, just I want to sleep well.
In overloaded cars, it is even more difficult to work. With the approach to the next station nerves, conductors are strained. Most of all, they are worried about passenger safety. The composition is trring, and some have not had time to sit in the car, others strive to crawl straight into the window. Even more difficult to railway workers working in the north. In Harbin, where Siberia’s breath is felt, in winter it happens under 30 below zero. Checking locomotives takes place in harsh frosts, cross-goes in any weather. It is these missing workers to ensure their diligent labor to ensure the safety of trains, warns accidents and fires.
Railway is characterized by large throughput and low cost. Energy it consumes much less road and air transport, and tickets are not so expensive. For a long time, China will not be able to cross on airplanes and buses. So the economic level of the population provides leadership of railway transport.
. The Gospel says: "Yes it does not happen to escape your winter or on Saturday". In applied to China, it would be possible to formulate such a commandment: "Yes, your journey will not happen during the 2008 Summer Olympics!". After all, it will be held in Beijing.